Koi growth, health and color of are dependent on water condition, the first thing to suspect koi fish problem is water quality. Good water quality comes from the perfect koi pond filter. Daily checking for water quality in the koi pond is very important for the health of Koi. Fresh water are used by some Koi keepers without a Filtration system, but a large amount of fresh water should not be put into the pond at one time. If a quantity of fresh water is entering the pond, the Koi's body system has to adjust to the new water condition. A loss of shine and color fading can be a result of excessive water changes. Carp like to live in the same water condition and environment.
Otherwise water circulated for a long time without change becomes aged and can cause small bubbles and scum in the pond. Most purification systems cannot eliminate 100% of the harmful chemicals such as ammonia. It is suggested that 5% to 20% of the pond water should be exchanged every week and fresh water added. This fresh water should be added in small amounts on a continuous basis, 24 hours a day, to prevent a major environmental change in the pond.
Water Quality Parameter and Koi Behaviour
Water quality can determined by looking at some of the parameters in the water and abnormal behaviour of the fish. Characteristics that appear from Koi behavior of fish is:
1. PH
PH is the single most important water quality parameter. It can affect the toxicity and quantity of several of the other components of koi pond water. Koi can live in a wide range of pH, but 7.2 to 7.8 is ideal. To lower the pH of your pond you can add a water softener, try reverse osmosis, and decrease splash aeration by by-passing the waterfall. To raise pH increase splash aeration, add oyster shells, or lime.
2. Ammonia
Ammonia is toxic to koi fish. As pH increases above 7, the amount of ammonium transformed into ammonia is exponentially
related to the pH. A test for ammonia with water test kits should always read 0.0 PPM. To reduce the toxic ammonia content, make a water change but be sure to add a dechlorinator, decrease feeding amount, add zeolite (never combine with salt additions), reduce fish load, add more filtration area, add a commercially prepared ammonia remover.
3. Nitrites/Nitrous Acid
Nitrites/Nitrous is the first steps in the Nitrogen Cycle. Nitrous Acid (HNO2-) is the by-product of Nitrosomonas bacteria breaking down ammonium in acid water. As pH decreases below pH 7, the amount of nitrous acid increases and becomes more toxic. To reduce toxic nitrous acid, make water changes, reduce the fish load, reduce the feeding amounts or adjust the pH. Add salt at the rate of 0.2% to inhibit the intake by the fish of nitrous acid. A test for these molecules should read 0.0 PPM.
4. Nitrates/Nitric Acid
Nitrates/Nitric Acid is the second step in the Nitrogen Cycle. Unless found in large quantities, both are considered non toxic. To control the amount of nitrates and nitric acid, make water changes or add plants.
5. Water Hardness
Hard water is due to an abundant number of salts such as calcium and magnesium. Koi can cope with a wide range of hardness. There are two major benefits to having hard water in your Koi pond. First, very hard water can bind some toxic metals such as lead. Secondly, hard water reduces the workload of the koi for osmoregulatory functions. A reading of 0 to 75 PPM is considered soft, from 75 to 150 PPM is moderately hard, from 150 to 300 PPM is hard and above 300 PPM is very hard. If it is necessary to increase your hardness you can add crushed oyster shells, coral or any substance that will increase the amount of calcium.
6. Total Alkalinity/ Temporary Hardness
A large amount of bicarbonates in the water will result in a high Total Alkalinity reading. Also knows as 'buffers', these bicarbonates dissociate and then combine with the Hydrogen ions produced by the Nitrogen Cycle and the other acids produced by the fish and organic decomposition. When Total Alkalinity is low, or is 'used', the water will become more and more acid. Combining a low Total Alkalinity with submerged plants or algae can cause a day time alkaline pH and a night time acid pH. This 'pH shift' is stressful to your fish and can lower their resistance to disease if the situation continues. Total alkalinity should be kept above 80 PPM to avoid these potentially dangerous shifts. To increase alkalinity, add sodium bicarbonate, change the water or add a commercially prepared pH Buffer.
7. Temperature
Temperature should be monitored for both daily and seasonal extremes. Temperature affects dissolved oxygen levels, respiration, metabolic rate, pH balance, free ammonia\ionized ammonia ratio and osmoregulation. Koi can tolerate a broad range of temperatures, from ponds that are iced over; to water up to 90F, better than they can tolerate sudden shifts in temperature.
Water temperature has an inverse relationship to the amount of oxygen contained in that water. The higher the water temperature, the lower the oxygen saturation level. The 'saturation level' is the maximum amount of oxygen in water at a given temperature. Water temperature also affects the metabolic rates of the fish. Fish, being cold blooded, slow their bodily functions as temperature decreases. This affects all circulatory systems. If you need to reduce the temperature of your water you can add more shade, add a misting system, bypass the waterfall during the day and utilize the waterfall only at night. To increase your water temperature, add a heater, bypass the waterfall at night and reduce the shade.
8. Oxygen
Oxygen is needed for the normal day to day functions of a fish and by the bacteria necessary for the breakdown of the fish's waste products in the nitrification process. Factors affecting the amount of oxygen in the water are temperature, fish load, organic load, medications, and the turn over rate. All of these factors affect oxygen inversely except the turn over rate. Minimum levels of oxygen should be 5 PPM. To increase the oxygen content, add venturis, increase the turnover rate, reduce the organic load (rid the pond of any organic matter that is sitting on the bottom). Do not add aquatic plants, they will use oxygen at night.
9. Carbon Dioxide
Carbon Dioxide product of koi fish respiration.To decrease the amount of carbon dioxide, add plants or increase bubble aeration. To increase Carbon Dioxide, remove plants and decrease bubble aeration.
10.Chlorine & Chloramines
11.Toxic Metals
Most natural waters contain chloride, sulfate, carbon, calcium, magnesium, sodium and potassium. These ions serve a vital purpose in the mineral metabolism of all animals. If these ions are found in high concentrations, their toxicity is dependent on water hardness, pH, temperature and the presence of other dissolved substances. The solubility and toxicity of zinc, lead, aluminum and copper have a direct relationship to increases of pH and water hardness. To remove heavy metals, use activated carbon filtration.
12. Organic Compounds
Oil and grease, organic carbons, phenolic compounds, and detergents are included in this group. Much of the pollution from these organic compounds is due to runoff entering the pond. Make water changes.
13.Other Toxic Gases
Hydrogen sulfide is the result of anerobic bacterial action on organic matter in the pond. Ozone is being used to disinfect water in some areas. Make water changes and clean out the mulm under the filter or in the bottom of koi pond.
14. Pesticides & Insecticides & Herbicides
These are usually introduced into the pond by runoff, precipitation or accidental spills. Make water changes.
Source:
1.Akca Library
Otherwise water circulated for a long time without change becomes aged and can cause small bubbles and scum in the pond. Most purification systems cannot eliminate 100% of the harmful chemicals such as ammonia. It is suggested that 5% to 20% of the pond water should be exchanged every week and fresh water added. This fresh water should be added in small amounts on a continuous basis, 24 hours a day, to prevent a major environmental change in the pond.
Water Quality Parameter and Koi Behaviour
Water quality can determined by looking at some of the parameters in the water and abnormal behaviour of the fish. Characteristics that appear from Koi behavior of fish is:
- If all the Koi are swimming all over the pond area that is an indication that they are healthy.
- If there any scum on the water surface and are many small bubbles forming, suggest the water is very old or the biological purification system is not working effectively.
- If Koi gathering at the waterfall area indicates that the water is lacking in oxygen content.
- If Koi accumulating in one area and some of them scratching their sides at the pond edges, there is a possibility they are having problems with parasites and the pond should be treated imediately.
Water Parameter In The Koi Pond
1. PH
PH is the single most important water quality parameter. It can affect the toxicity and quantity of several of the other components of koi pond water. Koi can live in a wide range of pH, but 7.2 to 7.8 is ideal. To lower the pH of your pond you can add a water softener, try reverse osmosis, and decrease splash aeration by by-passing the waterfall. To raise pH increase splash aeration, add oyster shells, or lime.
2. Ammonia
Ammonia is toxic to koi fish. As pH increases above 7, the amount of ammonium transformed into ammonia is exponentially
related to the pH. A test for ammonia with water test kits should always read 0.0 PPM. To reduce the toxic ammonia content, make a water change but be sure to add a dechlorinator, decrease feeding amount, add zeolite (never combine with salt additions), reduce fish load, add more filtration area, add a commercially prepared ammonia remover.
3. Nitrites/Nitrous Acid
Nitrites/Nitrous is the first steps in the Nitrogen Cycle. Nitrous Acid (HNO2-) is the by-product of Nitrosomonas bacteria breaking down ammonium in acid water. As pH decreases below pH 7, the amount of nitrous acid increases and becomes more toxic. To reduce toxic nitrous acid, make water changes, reduce the fish load, reduce the feeding amounts or adjust the pH. Add salt at the rate of 0.2% to inhibit the intake by the fish of nitrous acid. A test for these molecules should read 0.0 PPM.
4. Nitrates/Nitric Acid
Nitrates/Nitric Acid is the second step in the Nitrogen Cycle. Unless found in large quantities, both are considered non toxic. To control the amount of nitrates and nitric acid, make water changes or add plants.
5. Water Hardness
Hard water is due to an abundant number of salts such as calcium and magnesium. Koi can cope with a wide range of hardness. There are two major benefits to having hard water in your Koi pond. First, very hard water can bind some toxic metals such as lead. Secondly, hard water reduces the workload of the koi for osmoregulatory functions. A reading of 0 to 75 PPM is considered soft, from 75 to 150 PPM is moderately hard, from 150 to 300 PPM is hard and above 300 PPM is very hard. If it is necessary to increase your hardness you can add crushed oyster shells, coral or any substance that will increase the amount of calcium.
6. Total Alkalinity/ Temporary Hardness
A large amount of bicarbonates in the water will result in a high Total Alkalinity reading. Also knows as 'buffers', these bicarbonates dissociate and then combine with the Hydrogen ions produced by the Nitrogen Cycle and the other acids produced by the fish and organic decomposition. When Total Alkalinity is low, or is 'used', the water will become more and more acid. Combining a low Total Alkalinity with submerged plants or algae can cause a day time alkaline pH and a night time acid pH. This 'pH shift' is stressful to your fish and can lower their resistance to disease if the situation continues. Total alkalinity should be kept above 80 PPM to avoid these potentially dangerous shifts. To increase alkalinity, add sodium bicarbonate, change the water or add a commercially prepared pH Buffer.
7. Temperature
Temperature should be monitored for both daily and seasonal extremes. Temperature affects dissolved oxygen levels, respiration, metabolic rate, pH balance, free ammonia\ionized ammonia ratio and osmoregulation. Koi can tolerate a broad range of temperatures, from ponds that are iced over; to water up to 90F, better than they can tolerate sudden shifts in temperature.
Water temperature has an inverse relationship to the amount of oxygen contained in that water. The higher the water temperature, the lower the oxygen saturation level. The 'saturation level' is the maximum amount of oxygen in water at a given temperature. Water temperature also affects the metabolic rates of the fish. Fish, being cold blooded, slow their bodily functions as temperature decreases. This affects all circulatory systems. If you need to reduce the temperature of your water you can add more shade, add a misting system, bypass the waterfall during the day and utilize the waterfall only at night. To increase your water temperature, add a heater, bypass the waterfall at night and reduce the shade.
8. Oxygen
Oxygen is needed for the normal day to day functions of a fish and by the bacteria necessary for the breakdown of the fish's waste products in the nitrification process. Factors affecting the amount of oxygen in the water are temperature, fish load, organic load, medications, and the turn over rate. All of these factors affect oxygen inversely except the turn over rate. Minimum levels of oxygen should be 5 PPM. To increase the oxygen content, add venturis, increase the turnover rate, reduce the organic load (rid the pond of any organic matter that is sitting on the bottom). Do not add aquatic plants, they will use oxygen at night.
9. Carbon Dioxide
Carbon Dioxide product of koi fish respiration.To decrease the amount of carbon dioxide, add plants or increase bubble aeration. To increase Carbon Dioxide, remove plants and decrease bubble aeration.
10.Chlorine & Chloramines
11.Toxic Metals
Most natural waters contain chloride, sulfate, carbon, calcium, magnesium, sodium and potassium. These ions serve a vital purpose in the mineral metabolism of all animals. If these ions are found in high concentrations, their toxicity is dependent on water hardness, pH, temperature and the presence of other dissolved substances. The solubility and toxicity of zinc, lead, aluminum and copper have a direct relationship to increases of pH and water hardness. To remove heavy metals, use activated carbon filtration.
12. Organic Compounds
Oil and grease, organic carbons, phenolic compounds, and detergents are included in this group. Much of the pollution from these organic compounds is due to runoff entering the pond. Make water changes.
13.Other Toxic Gases
Hydrogen sulfide is the result of anerobic bacterial action on organic matter in the pond. Ozone is being used to disinfect water in some areas. Make water changes and clean out the mulm under the filter or in the bottom of koi pond.
14. Pesticides & Insecticides & Herbicides
These are usually introduced into the pond by runoff, precipitation or accidental spills. Make water changes.
Source:
1.Akca Library
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